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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.